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Beading FAQ

Have a bead-related question? We've got the answer! We've been answering customers' questions in our store since 1997, and we've put the most frequently asked ones here in the FAQ.

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Helpful Information > Beading FAQ
Bead Stringing and Knotting
Wirework and Metals
Bead Weaving, Bead Embroidery, and Seed Beads
Product Information
Tools
Design Tips

Bead Stringing and Knotting
  1. Q. What kind of stringing material should I use to make a basic beaded necklace or bracelet?
    For most basic bead stringing projects, we recommend Soft Flex or Beadalon flexible beading wire, which are made of multiple strands of stainless steel covered with nylon. Use crimp beads to securely fasten flexible beading wire to a clasp. For information on appropriate crimp beads and crimping tools to use with beading wire, please see the Tools section below.


  2. Q. Which flexible beading wire should I choose?
    Finding the right flexible beading wire for your design project can be one of the most important beading decisions you make! Keeping the following in mind may help you decide which product will work best with your design:

    Diameter: Diameter is the thickness of the wire. You will see the diameter in decimal form, in fractions of an inch. Our thinnest wire is.010", and .024" is typically the largest size. Keep these sizes in mind to find the right size for the holes of the beads that you'll be stringing. The wire size you use will also depend on how many times you may need to pass through the bead.

    Strands: Strands refers to the number of reinforcing stainless steel strands that are within the nylon coating of the flexible beading wire. (Strands does not refer to separate pieces of wire on the spool.) The more strands, the less likely the wire will fray or break over time and the greater the wire's resistance to kinking and becoming misshapen. The greater the number of strands, the better the overall quality of the wire (and therefore the higher the cost). A 7-strand wire has 7 strands of stainless steel twisted within the nylon coating; a 21-strand wire has three 7-strand twists within the nylon; and a 49-strand wire has seven 7-strand twists within the nylon coating.

    Strength: If you're working with beads that have sharp edges around their holes (such as semi-precious stones, crystals and pearls), we recommend using a beading wire with a higher number of strands to ensure that your jewelry does not wear through the wire and break.


  3. Q. How do I attach a clasp to my beading wire?
    To attach a clasp to a beading wire with a crimp bead, string all your beads, and then string a crimp bead. String one side of your clasp. Loop the end of the beading wire back over the clasp and slip it back through the crimp bead; pull the wire snugly. Using a crimping tool or chain-nose pliers, squeeze the crimp bead firmly. Our Techniques page on crimping makes this easy.


  4. Q. What is a crimping tool?
    A crimping tool, used with tubular crimp beads, creates smooth, rounded crimps in a two-step process. Please see our Technique for step-by-step photos and instructions on using a crimping tool.


  5. Q. What is knotting?
    Knotting is a bead-stringing technique traditionally used for pearls. In contemporary jewelry designs, you can use any type of bead you want. Please see our Technique for step-by-step photos and instructions for pearl knotting.


  6. Q. How do I attach a clasp to a string of pearls or beads that I have strung on silk cord?
    Bead tips (also known as knot cups), conceal and secure knots tied with silk cord and connect the cord to the clasp. First knot the cord inside a bead tip, dab the knot with glue, and then use pliers to gently close the cup around the knot. Attach a clasp to the bead tip's loop, and then close the loop around the clasp. Please see our Technique on pearl knotting for photos and instructions on how to use bead tips.


  7. Q. How do I attach a clasp to a cord?
    Two ways to attach a clasp to a cord (such as waxed cotton or silk strings) are with a cord end or a 3x3mm crimp bead. To use a cord end, slip one end of the cord into the hollow cord end, then crimp firmly with chain nose pliers. A 3x3mm crimp bead can be used with a cord as long as the cord will fit through the crimp bead when doubled. Please see our Technique on crimping a cord for instructions.


  8. Q. Griffin Silk Bead Cord Size Chart
    Griffin Silk Bead Cord Size Inches Millimeters
    2
    .017 in.
    .45mm
    4
    .024 in.
    .60mm
    6
    .027 in.
    .70mm
    8
    .032 in.
    .80mm
    10
    .035 in.
    .90mm
    12
    .037 in.
    .98mm
    14
    .040 in.
    1.02mm
    16
    .041 in.
    1.05mm



  9. Q. How do I finish memory wire?
    Use a pair of sturdy round nose pliers (not fine jewelry pliers) to make a small loop on each end of the wire.


  10. Q. How do I string beads onto organza ribbon?
    Cut the ribbon at a sharp angle and thread it through a flexible, twisted wire needle. The needle eye will compress as it passes through bead holes. You can also thread the ribbon directly through beads without a needle if you cut the ribbon at a very sharp angle.


  11. Q. Can I use scissors to cut beading wire?
    We do not recommend cutting beading wire with regular scissors, as this may damage your scissors. In addition, they may not cut the beading wire cleanly or get sufficiently close. We recommend that you use either a bead nipper (TL0308) or cutter (TL0300).


  12. Q. How do I use a toggle clasp if my beads are large and do not allow the toggle bar to pivot and fit through the loop?
    Add an inch of chain to the bar end of your toggle, or add a few small beads to the end of the wire before attaching the bar end. The chain or small beads will give the bar sufficient space to pivot.


  13. Q. What stringing material is recommended with Cubic Zirconia beads?
    You can use a variety of materials, depending on your desired look. In our Inspiration gallery you will find several designs using Cubic Zirconia beads that have been strung on beading wire or wire. Both of these materials will work well with the Cubic Zirconia.


  14. Q. How do I finish a bracelet strung on elastic cord?
    Tie the ends of the cord into a square knot and dab the knot with glue. Hypo Cement (TL1202) works well because of its fine applicator point. You can also use a 2x2mm sterling crimp bead (SS4047). Pass both ends of the cord through the crimp in opposite directions and crimp the crimp bead flat with chain-nosed pliers.


  15. Q. Fireline braided beading thread gets tangled easily while I’m using it. How can I prevent this?
    Although Fireline is a strong, durable thread for beadweaving, the tail end of the thread (the shorter side) has a tendency to wrap itself around the working end, causing tangling and knotting. If you keep the tail end as short as possible (less than 2 inches), this type of tangling can be minimized. Another idea is to use Thread Heaven thread conditioner on Fireline. Although Fireline will not absorb Thread Heaven the way Nymo or other threads will, Thread Heaven does seem to reduce tangling.


  16. Q. On what types of jewelry should I use 3x3mm crimp beads and pliers?
    Use 3x3mm crimp beads – the largest we offer – and corresponding Mighty crimping pliers with cord, organza ribbon, satin cord or waxed cotton ribbon and especially heavy or large beads. Please see the Tools section below for information on appropriate flexible beading wire sizes that will work with the 3x3mm crimp beads.


Wirework and Metals
  1. Q. Jump Ring Sizes
    Jump Ring Item (SKU) Number
    Approximate Gauge
    Diameter
    SS3475
    16
    10mm
    SS3473
    16
    14mm
    SS3472
    14
    18mm
    SS3467
    16
    6mm
    SS3468
    16
    10mm
    SS3471
    12
    18mm



  2. Q. What is wirework?
    Wirework is forming coils, loops, twists and other shapes with wire. Wirework is one of the most popular ways to create jewelry with beads. Basic wirework in jewelry is attaching beads to beading wire or findings with simple loops or wrapped loops. Express yourself more creatively by manipulating wire into complex designs. You can even make your own clasps and other findings with wire.


  3. Q. What gauge wire should I use for jewelry?
    Wire is measured by gauge - the higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. The appropriate wire gauge is determined by the technique you will use and the type of bead that the wire will go through. In general, 24-gauge wire is appropriate for most semi-precious gemstones. Gemstones that have been drilled with very small holes may require a thinner wire, such as 26 gauge. Glass beads usually have larger holes and can accommodate a thicker wire, such as 22 gauge. For pieces of wirework larger than a wire-wrapped loop, such as a clasp or design element, you may want to choose thicker wires, such as 14-20 gauge.


  4. Q. What kinds of tools do I need for wireworking?
    Basic wireworking tools you will need to make jewelry are chain-nose pliers, round-nose pliers, and flush cutters. Chain nose pliers, which have flat jaws that taper to a point, are used to grip and bend wire. Round nose pliers have conical jaws for making round wire loops. Flush cutters enable you to snip your wire with a clean, close, flush cut that leaves no burrs. For more advanced techniques, you may want a hammer, mallet, bench block, file or other tools. For more information on using wireworking tools, please see our Techniques on making a simple loop and wire wrapping.


  5. Q. How do I securely open and close an open jump ring?
    Unsoldered (open) jump rings can be opened and closed laterally with chain nose or flat nose pliers. One common method is to hold the jump ring between two chain nose pliers with the opening at 12 o’clock while holding the tips of the pliers at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock. Use the pliers to move the ends away from each other with a twist of your wrists -- one towards you and one away from you. Close the jump ring by doing the same steps in reverse, wiggling the ends together to close. This method allows the jump ring to hold its shape and strength.


  6. Q. What's the difference between half-hard wire and dead-soft wire?
    Half-hard wire has been treated, either by annealing or drawing, to make it stiffer. Dead-soft wire is much softer than half-hard wire of the same gauge.


  7. Q. My sterling silver wire has become tarnished. How can I make it shiny again?
    You can make tarnished wire (or any piece of tarnished silver, such as a finding) shiny again by rubbing it gently with silver polishing cloth.


  8. Q. What is the percentage of silver in sterling silver?
    Silver is a natural precious metal. When silver is combined with copper in a 92.5% / 7.5% ratio, it is considered sterling. Adding copper to silver makes the silver harder and easier to work with. Sterling silver wire will tarnish over time but can be polished easily.


  9. Q. What is the percentage of silver in Thai Hill Tribe silver?
    Thai silver contains 95-99 percent pure silver and a small percentage of alloyed metal. The higher silver content makes it slightly softer than sterling, which makes it more pliable for the intricate stamping and forming done by Hill Tribe artisans of Thailand.


  10. Q. What is pewter?
    Pewter is an alloy consisting of mostly tin (normally at least 91 percent) and very small amounts of antimony and copper, which are added mainly for strength and color. The higher the tin content, the more silver the final color.


  11. Q. Does pewter made today still contain lead?
    The pewter beads and findings we carry contain an alloy composed of 92% tin, 7½% antimony and ½% copper. Tin is refined from ore that contains other metals, including lead. A chemical process is used to remove the lead, but trace amounts still remain. The casting alloy is routinely tested for lead content, yielding results ranging from 179 to 300 parts per million (PPM). This is well below the Food and Drug Administration's standard of 500 PPM deemed safe for pewter used for culinary purposes in contact with food. Although all pewter contains trace amounts of lead, the term "lead-free pewter" is sometimes used to describe pewter that meets the stringent FDA standard.


  12. Q. Are your gold-plated products plated with real gold?
    The gold-plated beads and findings we carry are lead-free pewter cast beads with high-quality 22kt luster gold plating.


  13. Q. Are your silver-plated products plated with real silver?
    Our silver-plated beads and findings are lead-free pewter cast beads with high-quality silver plating.


  14. Q. What is gold filled?
    Our gold-filled beads, wire and chain are composed of 14kt gold fused onto a base metal core - usually brass – that results in a permanent bond. The gold layer on gold-filled products is thicker and will wear better than gold-plated products.


  15. Q. Why does copper turn my skin green?
    Copper can react with perspiration on your skin to form copper sulfate (the green stuff). Loose-fitting jewelry is far less likely to turn your skin green than a tight-fitting ring because the copper needs sweat to react. To reduce the reaction with your skin, remove copper jewelry before taking showers or washing your hands, and limit the time that the jewelry is worn.


  16. Q. Will gunmetal or brass turn my skin green?
    Brass, bronze and gun metals are copper alloys, so they could potentially turn your skin green or black but are not as likely to as pure copper is.


  17. Q. What is the largest wire gauge that will fit through Swarovski crystals?
    If you use 20 gauge wire or finer, it will fit most Swarovski crystal beads easily. With 3mm bicone crystals, use a 22 gauge or finer wire.


  18. Q. How can I use stones without holes in my beading projects?
    With wireworking skills and a little practice, you can wrap wire around a cabochon (a flat, undrilled stone) or any undrilled stone to create a pendant. All Wired Up (BK1000) by Mark Lareau has illustrated instructions for basic wireworking techniques as well as more advanced techniques such as wrapping wire around an undrilled stone.


Bead Weaving, Bead Embroidery, and Seed Beads
  1. Q. What are seed beads?
    Seed beads are tiny pieces of glass cane that have been heated until they are smooth. Available in hundreds of colors and many finishes, they are the "paint" of your loom and off-loom beadwork. Seed beads are sized by number - the higher the number, the smaller the bead. For example, size 15 seed beads are smaller than size 8. Most seed beads commonly in use today are manufactured in Japan and the Czech Republic. Japanese seed beads are generally more consistent in shape and have larger holes than Czech seed beads, allowing more passes of thread. Our Japanese seed beads are manufactured by Toho, Miyuki and Matsuno.


  2. Q. Delica Quantity Chart
    Fusion Beads sells Delica beads in bags that hold 5 grams.

    Size 8
    Size 10
    Size 11
    Size 15
    Approx. no. beads in 5-gram bag
    160
    545
    1,000
    1,900
    Approx. size of bead
    2.6mm
    1.7mm
    1.3mm
    1mm
    Approx. number of beads per inch (strung)
    9
    15
    20
    22



  3. Q. Seed Bead Quantity Chart
    Fusion Beads sells seed beads in tubes that hold 12-14 grams and 9 grams.

    Seed Bead Size
    6
    8
    11
    15
    3mm cube
    4mm cube
    3mm bugle
    6mm bugle
    12mm bugle
    Approx. no. beads in 12- or 13-gram tube
    180
    400
    1,250
    2,200
    260
    130
    1,000
    Approx. no. beads in 9-gram tube
    800
    350
    115 (8 grams)
    Approx. size of bead
    4mm
    3mm
    2mm
    <1mm
    3mm
    4mm
    3mm
    6mm
    12mm
    Approx. number of beads per inch (strung)
    9
    11
    17
    24
    9
    7
    8
    4
    2

    Seed Bead Size
    8 triangle
    10 triangle
    11 triangle
    14 triangle
    3.4mm drop
    Approx. no. beads in 13- or 14-gram tube
    425
    840
    925
    2,800
    265
    Approx. size of bead
    3mm
    2.4mm
    2mm
    1.4mm
    3.4mm
    Approx. number of beads per inch (strung)
    10
    14
    12
    18
    14

    Seed Bead Size
    2 round
    3 round
    11 hex
    12 cut
    Approx. no. beads in 12- or 13-gram tube
    50
    80
    1,300
    1,450
    Approx. size of bead
    5mm
    3.75mm
    2mm
    1.4mm
    Approx. number of beads per inch (strung)
    6
    7
    13
    17



  4. Q. What is bead embroidery?
    Bead embroidery (also sometimes referred to as bead applique) is stitching beads onto fabric. Beads can be used to embellish fabric by incorporating them into any traditional or freeform embroidery stitch. For more information on bead embroidery, please see Beaded Embellishments: Techniques and Designs for Embroidering on Cloth, a book by by Amy C. Clark and Robin Atkins.


  5. Q. What are "off-loom" bead-weaving stitches?
    Off-loom bead-weaving stitches are used to stitch seed beads and other beads together with a needle and thread instead of a loom. Some of the most popular off-loom stitches are peyote (also known as gourd) stitch, square stitch, brick (also known as Comanche) stitch, right-angle weave, herringbone (also known as Ndebele) stitch, and netting. For more information on off-loom bead-weaving stitches, please see our great selection of books in the Needle and Thread Books section.


  6. Q. What kind of thread should I use with seed beads?
    For loom and off-loom bead weaving and bead embroidery, the most popular thread is Nymo, a nylon monofilament thread. Other popular threads for off-loom bead weaving are Silamide nylon thread, Superlon, FireLine, a braided beading thread made of gel-spun polyethylene, and Power Pro braided beading thread. If your seed beadwork will include beads with sharp edges that may cut thread, we recommend FireLine or Power Pro.


  7. Q. What kind of needle should I use with seed beads?
    The most popular needle for off-loom work is a beading needle, which is longer than a standard sewing needle. Shorter needles called sharps can be used when embellishing fabric with beads. Both beading needles and sharps are sized by number - the smaller the number, the bigger the needle. For most bead-weaving techniques, a size 10 needle will go through seed beads as small as size 15. Big Eye and twisted wire needles can be used for loom work and stringing.


  8. Q. What are beeswax and Thread Heaven thread conditioner?
    Both beeswax (natural or synthetic) and Thread Heaven thread conditioner can help protect thread from fraying and unwanted knotting. Beeswax, which is stickier than Thread Heaven, is especially effective when stitching with a double thread to keep the two thread strands together.


  9. Q. How do hanks of seed beads compare in quantity to your seed beads in tubes?
    Seed bead hanks can vary widely in quantity. In general, an average hank of size 11 seed beads contains about 40 grams of seed beads. Our seed beads come in 12- and 13-gram tubes.


  10. Q. What do the numerical sizes on seed beads mean? Are they consistent among all seed beads?
    The numerical sizes on seed beads are useful for comparing relative seed bead sizes. The smaller the number, the larger the bead – for example, size 8 seed beads are larger than size 15 beads. What makes this tricky is that different manufacturers use different standards for measuring the beads they make. In general, size 11 Czech seed beads are slightly smaller than size 11 Japanese seed beads. Sizing among Japanese seed beads is more consistent than sizing among Czech seed beads, but even among Japanese seed bead manufacturers, beads with the same numerical designation may differ slightly in size. If consistency is important to your design, you may want to consider using Delica brand beads. Delica beads are cylindrical seed beads that are beautifully consistent in size and shape.


  11. Q. What are Delica beads?
    Manufactured by Miyuki Shoji of Japan, Delica is the brand name for cylindrical glass seed beads that are known for their consistency in size and shape and wide color range. Size 11 Delica beads are about 1.6mm in diameter – slightly smaller than standard size 11 Japanese seed beads. The hole will accommodate any size beading needle and multiple passes of thread. Size 11 Delica beads will fit onto size .024” beading wire and 20 gauge wire.


  12. Q. How do needle sizes correspond to seed bead sizes?
    As with seed beads, the smaller the needle size, the larger the needle. For example, size 10 needles are larger than size 15 needles. When using size 11 seed beads or larger for bead embroidery and most off-loom beadweaving stitches, use a size 10 needle. You may also be able to use a size 10 needle with size 15 or smaller seed beads, especially with embroidery and beadweaving stitches that require only two passes of thread (such as peyote, herringbone and brick). If you are incorporating pearls, gemstones or other beads with small holes, or if you are using a beadweaving stitch that requires more than two passes of thread (such as square stitch, right angle weave and spiral rope), you may need to use a size 12 or smaller needle.


  13. Q. What kinds of beads can I use when I crochet or knit with beads? I’m having difficulty finding beads that fit on my yarn.
    The larger seed beads such as size 6 and size 6 hex beads may be appropriate for knitting or crocheting with beads as long as the yarn you are stringing them onto is not too bulky. Size 8 beads can be used with sport weight or lighter weight yarns. We recommend using a Big Eye needle to string beads onto yarn. Made of 2 needles soldered together, the eye in the Big Eye Needle is in the middle. The large expanding eye allows twine, yarn, and other large fibers to pass through easily.

    If you have difficulty getting the needle and yarn through beads, try making a self-needle with nail polish: First, cut the yarn at an angle, creating a narrow tip on the end. Apply several coats of nail polish to the angled tip of yarn, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next coat. The tip will be stiff enough to thread through most bead holes easily. Cut off the polished tip after you have finished stringing all the beads and before you begin knitting or crocheting.


  14. Q. How do I choose the appropriate size thread for the seed beads I am using?
    A good general rule of thumb is to use the heaviest thread that your bead holes will accommodate, taking into account the number of thread passes you will be making. In general, size D Nymo, size D Superlon and size 6 lb. Fireline can both be used with size 15 or larger seed beads, especially with beadweaving stitches that involve only two passes of thread. For stitches that involve multiple passes of thread (such as right angle weave and spiral rope), you may need to use size B Nymo, size AA Superlon and size 4 lb. Fireline.


  15. Q. What type of needle is recommended for bead embroidery?
    Many people prefer to use the shorter “sharps” length of needle for bead embroidery because its shorter length makes it less flexible than beading needles, providing better leverage for piercing fabric. However, other beaders prefer to use beading needles, especially if they have grown accustomed to the longer length from using them with offloom beadweaving techniques. Ultimately, personal preference should be your guide.


  16. Q. What type of thread is recommended for bead embroidery?
    Nymo, Superlon and Silamide threads are all appropriate for bead embroidery. Wax or thread conditioner are usually not necessary when sewing beads to fabric.


  17. Q. For what purposes would I use Nymo, Silamide, Superlon, Power Pro or Fireline?
    Nymo, Superlon and Silamide threads are all good choices for loom and off-loom bead weaving. These threads are also appropriate for multiple strands of small, lightweight beads, such as seed beads. Power Pro can also be used for off-loom bead weaving with larger seed beads. Fireline is a strong polyethylene beading thread that is also fine enough for most seed beads and all off-loom bead-weaving stitches. Fireline is a great choice when you are using beads that may have sharp hole edges (such as Swarovski crystals) in a bead-weaving project.

    None of these beading threads should be crimped with crimp beads. If you prefer to use crimp beads, we recommend Soft Flex or Beadalon flexible beading wires.


  18. Q. How are Nymo, Silamide, Superlon, Power Pro and Fireline different?
    Nymo and Superlon are both nylon monofilament beading threads. Silamide is a 2-ply, twisted, waxed nylon thread. Power Pro is a strong, flexible braided beading thread. Fireline is made of gel-spun polyethylene, a strong fiber.


  19. Q. I want to sew Swarovski crystals onto fabric. What’s the best way to do this?
    Because Swarovski crystals have sharp bead holes that can cut thread, we recommend using a doubled thread (such as Nymo D or Superlon D). With the thread anchored in the fabric, pass through the bead, then take a small stitch in the fabric. Pass the needle through the fabric to the wrong side. Tie a knot against the fabric. Pass back through the fabric to the front and pass through the bead again. The combination of multiple threads inside the bead and tying a knot after each bead is attached will keep the beads from falling off if a thread is broken. This technique works best with smaller (3-5mm) crystal beads.


  20. Q. What kinds of clasps are appropriate for fastening jewelry made of beadwoven seed beads – for example, a flat peyote bracelet?
    A popular way to fasten a seed beadwork bracelet is to use a relatively flat button. Among our favorites are Swarovski crystal buttons. These low-profile, lightweight buttons add an elegant sparkle to a flat beadwork bracelet without making it overly chunky or heavy.

    Another favorite clasp for seed beadwork is the multi-strand sterling silver or gold-filled Tube Bar Clasp. Tube bar clasps bring together the two ends of your bracelet with a nearly seamless join. Choose a clasp that is about as long as your bracelet is wide.

    An ever-popular alternative is to simply use a large bead as a button. Rondelle-shaped beads seem to work best, such as the wonderful selection of Czech lampworked rondelle beads we offer.

    Regardless of the type of clasp, button or bead you choose as a bracelet fastener, be sure to sew the piece on securely and reinforce the attachment with several passes of thread.


  21. Q. Can I use a clasp such as a toggle or lobster claw to fasten beadwoven jewelry?
    Toggles or lobster claws are excellent clasps for beadwoven jewelry. To reduce contact between the metal clasp and the thread (and therefore reduce the possibility of abrasion), string about 5 - 7 size 11 or size 15 seed beads (or as many as will fit around the loop in the clasp) and form a ring around the clasp loop. Reinforce by passing back through the seed beads several times, and secure with knots within the beadweaving.


  22. Q. What is bead weaving on a loom?
    Weaving beads on a loom is an easy way to follow a charted pattern and make a strip of beadwork using seed beads. Some traditional Native American bead weaving is done on a loom, as well as contemporary bead weaving. One helpful book about loom weaving is Beading on a Loom by Don Pierce.


  23. Q. Why should I use Soft Touch needles?
    Soft Touch needles are specially designed to fit the .010 diameter Soft Touch beading wire. Soft Touch gives beadwork a supple drape – perfect for smaller, lightweight beads. Using a Soft Touch needle gives the wire additional support, which makes stringing small beads easy.


Product Information
  1. Q. When will the CRYSTALLIZED™- Swarovski Elements with the Titan coating be available?
    The CRYSTALLIZED™- Swarovski Elements with the Titan coating have been discontinued by the third-party vendor that applies the coating due to quality issues. We will offer these products again as soon as we are able to.


  2. Q. Why are the CRYSTALLIZEDTM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads changing?
    FusionBeads.com is thrilled to bring you an exciting change in CRYSTALLIZEDTTM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads. All 5301 style crystal bicone beads in 3mm to 10mm sizes will soon be available with the brilliant XILION cut, which increases the number of reflective surfaces on the familiar bicone shape with alternating small and large facets. The change and the copyright-protected XILION name will distinguish authentic CRYSTALLIZEDTM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads from products made by other manufacturers. The new cut has a higher brilliance and is more comfortable to wear. The upgraded bicone beads will be identified with style number 5328.


  3. Q. When will the CRYSTALLIZEDTM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads with the XILION cut be available?
    The CRYSTALLIZEDTM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads with the XILION cut will be phased in at FusionBeads.com as they become available from Swarovski and as our stock is replenished.


  4. Q. I still have CRYSTALLIZED TM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads in the traditional 5301 cut. Will I be able to mix the XILION-cut bicone beads with the traditional style?
    The profile and dimensions of the XILION-cut CRYSTALLIZED TM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads remain unchanged, making them perfectly compatible with traditional 5301 CRYSTALLIZED TM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads. You’ll be able to use both crystal bicone bead styles together in the same jewelry designs with spectacular results.


  5. Q. Will the CRYSTALLIZED TM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads in the 2.5mm size be upgraded to the XILION cut?
    Because the 2.5mm crystal bicone bead size is too small to upgrade, the cut will remain the same, but the style number will change to 5328 to be consistent with the rest of the crystal bicone bead product line.


  6. Q. Will the crystal mixes include CRYSTALLIZED TM - Swarovski Elements Crystal Bicone Beads in both the traditional 5301 and 5328 styles?
    Until all colors in a specific crystal mix are available with the XILION cut, the mix will not be replenished. We appreciate your patience while we restock our custom crystal mixes to make them even more beautiful than ever.


  7. Q. What are the general differences between the glazes you carry?
    Click here for our handy chart that you can view that shows the general differences and the prices for the different glazes we carry.


  8. Q. What’s the difference between Amazing Glaze and Diamond Glaze? Which should I use?
    Using either Amazing Glaze or Diamond Glaze will achieve the same result, but each requires a different setting process.

    Use Amazing Glaze if you:
    - have a conventional oven, toaster oven or embossing gun
    - want your project to be completed in less than one hour

    Use Diamond Glaze if you:
    - prefer not to use heat
    - have 2-3 hours for your project to cure


  9. Q. How do I size my image correctly for a picture frame I am planning to glaze?
    Use FusionBeads.com's picture frame template or plated picture frame template as a guide for cutting out your images. If you print these templates on cardstock or other heavy paper, they will be more durable and can be reused. You can also use decorative punches or cut out any fun shape to fit inside the frame.


  10. Q. Why is the glazing template I printed not sized correctly for my picture frame?
    When printing the glazing template, choose “None” from the Page Scaling option menu.


  11. Q. Which heating instrument should I use with Amazing Glaze – a conventional oven, a toaster oven or an embossing gun?
    Any of these three heating instruments will work with Amazing Glaze. Here are things to consider:

    - A conventional oven is practical if you do not have a toaster oven. It also allows more space to set multiple projects at once. The temperature can be somewhat difficult to control with a conventional oven. After it has been used to set Amazing Glaze, always allow the oven to vent completely before using it with food.
    - If you already have a toaster oven dedicated to craft use, it is most practical for setting Amazing Glaze. A toaster oven will take less time to preheat than a conventional oven. If your toaster oven is not dedicated to craft use, always allow it to vent completely before using it with food.
    - An embossing gun is a good alternative if you prefer not to use your conventional oven or toaster oven. It offers more heating control. Use the embossing gun slowly and carefully to prevent air pressure from the gun from blowing the glazing powder away.

    Regardless of the heating instrument, it is possible to overheat and scorch a printed image or dissolve beads or other products that you have set in the Amazing Glaze. For this reason, we recommend using copies of photos or artwork rather than originals. Always use tweezers or pliers when picking up a heated piece to avoid burns.


  12. Q. How can I eliminate bubbles in Amazing Glaze?
    After you have removed the glazed piece from the heat source, let it cool. Small particles of glaze that have not dissolved may appear as bubbles. Carefully reheat the piece to dissolve the remaining Amazing Glaze particles.

    If you are using hollow forms as design elements in Amazing Glaze, avoid air bubbles by filling the form before setting in the final piece.


  13. Q. How long will it take for Amazing Glaze to set?
    Oven temperatures vary, so the length of time your piece requires may also vary. Most pieces take about 3-5 minutes. After removing the piece from the oven, allow it to cool on a flat surface for 15 minutes or until completely cool.


  14. Q. Can I reheat Amazing Glaze?
    Yes, you can reheat Amazing Glaze. However, keep a close eye on it to avoid overheating.


  15. Q. How can I make layers with Amazing Glaze?
    Make the first layer leaving enough room in the form for another layer. When the piece has cooled completely, place the beads or other objects that you want to enclose on the surface of the first layer, and then add another layer of Amazing Glaze. Reheat using the same temperature setting that you used for the first layer. Keep a close eye on the second heating. Both layers will be dissolving, so if you have overfilled the form, the Amazing Glaze may spill over the edges.


  16. Q. What should I do if Amazing Glaze spills over the sides of my form?
    Let the form cool as usual. Use an art knife to carefully cut away the excess Amazing Glaze from the edges of the form. If you use too much pressure, you may cause the Amazing Glaze to chip.


  17. Q. How can I repair a chip in the Amazing Glaze?
    You can carefully reheat the piece to dissolve and smooth the surface. Be careful to prevent overheating the materials enclosed in the glaze. Reheating may cause paper, glitter or other delicate materials to scorch or melt from overheating.


  18. Q. What are appropriate materials to enclose with Amazing Glaze?
    When choosing materials to enclose with Amazing Glaze, keep in mind that the materials will be heated.

    - Polymer clay, fabric and printed images such as those from magazines work well, as do photographs and crafting paper. (If the fabric or paper appears transparent when wet, it will also appear transparent when set in Amazing Glaze.)
    - Images printed with an ink jet printer and other water-soluble inks will bleed.
    - Mica glitter, glass glitter and Art Institute polyester glitter will work. However, other brands of polyester glitter may dissolve, bubble or run during heating.
    - Any materials with a matte finish will not appear matte once set in Amazing Glaze.
    - Organic items such as leaves and flowers will bubble and boil when set in Amazing Glaze. If you wish to use them, make sure they are thoroughly dried first.
    - Plastics and wood are not recommended for use with Amazing Glaze.

    Remember to keep a close eye on the materials as you heat them, as overheating can cause scorching. We recommend using copies of photos or artwork rather than originals.


  19. Q. Can I enclose dimensional objects with Amazing Glaze?
    Yes, if you are careful! Here are things to consider:

    - The enclosed materials must be able to withstand a heating process as high as 300 degrees.
    - Crystal beads and flat backs and any other faceted objects will lose their faceted appearance when covered with Amazing Glaze.
    - Charms, metal beads and components work well, as do many crafting embellishments.

    To prevent objects from moving during the heating process, use a small amount of glue to stabilize them.


  20. Q. How can I eliminate bubbles in Diamond Glaze?
    To prevent bubbles in Diamond Glaze, avoid shaking the bottle. When applying it, first squeeze a small amount onto a piece of waste paper to release any air trapped in the bottle tip. Move the tip over the project without allowing air to backflow into the tip as you are applying the glaze.

    If you still find bubbles in the Diamond Glaze, use a needle or pin to pop them.


  21. Q. How long will it take for Diamond Glaze to set?
    Setting time will vary, depending on the thickness of the glaze and humidity. A layer 1mm thick can take up to 2-3 hours to set, depending on humidity. Diamond Glaze usually sets to a tacky surface in about 30 minutes and can take as much as 24 hours to completely cure.


  22. Q. How can I make layers with Diamond Glaze?
    Make the first layer leaving enough room in the form for another layer. Allow the layer to set. Place the beads or other objects that you want to enclose on the surface of the first layer, and add a second layer in the same manner as the first. Be careful not to overfill the form.


  23. Q. What can I do if Diamond Glaze spills over the sides of my form?
    You can clean up excess glaze while the Diamond Glaze is still wet. Use a damp cloth, paper towel or cotton swab to wipe away the excess glaze.


  24. Q. What are appropriate image materials to enclose with Diamond Glaze?
    Diamond Glaze is water-soluble, so choose images that are printed with non-water-soluble inks. Printed images such as those from magazines work well, as do photographs and crafting paper. Images printed with an ink jet printer and other water-soluble inks will bleed.


  25. Q. Can I use dimensional objects with Diamond Glaze?
    Yes. Here are things to consider:

    - Crystal beads, crystal flat backs and any other faceted objects will lose their faceted appearance when covered with Diamond Glaze.
    - Charms, metal beads and components work well, as do many crafting embellishments.

    To prevent objects from moving during the setting process, use a small amount of glue to stabilize them.


  26. Q. What are other uses for Diamond Glaze?
    Diamond Glaze can also be used as an adhesive. In fact, when you are adding embellishments to a Diamond Glaze surface, you can stabilize them with a small drop of Diamond Glaze – no need to use a different product.

    Use Diamond Glaze to add dimensional texture to your paper and stamping crafts.

    Try mixing Diamond Glaze with dye-based inks, watercolors, pearlescent pigments or pastel chalks to add color to your projects.


  27. Q. What are Swarovski crystal filigrees, and how can they be used?
    Our line of fabulous Swarovski crystal filigree components are some of the most versatile pieces we offer. They can be used as links (by themselves or with other findings and beads), pendants or charms for necklaces and earrings, chandelier earring frames, and in some cases, buttons. With a little creativity, they can even be transformed into post earrings, lapel pins and rings.


  28. Q. What are the Swarovski crystal filigrees made of?
    The silver-colored filigree components are composed of brass with a high-quality, tarnish-free, rhodium plating. Rhodium is frequently used as the plating on white gold and platinum wedding rings to add hardness and a brilliant sheen. We offer both bright and antiqued versions of the rhodium. Swarovski’s antiquing process leaves the metal a bit lighter than gunmetal and darkens the crystal color a shade.

    The gold-plated filigree pieces are composed of brass with a high-quality plating of heavy 14kt gold.


  29. Q. What do the filigree pieces feel like when worn?
    Our filigree pieces are lightweight enough to use in multiples on earrings, but still sturdy enough to link together into a hard-wearing bracelet without fear of the “petal” loops bending or snapping. Their backs are flat so they lay nicely on your body or clothes when hanging from a chain or made into a lapel pin. They are delicate while still being sturdy.


  30. Q. Where are the holes in the filigree pieces located?
    The product photos show exactly where the holes are located in the pieces. Each filigree has “petals” with holes all around the edges just waiting to be connected with jump rings, split rings, wire, cord, Soft Flex or any other stringing material you can think of that fits. The backs are flat and do not have bails or shanks.


  31. Q. How do I attach the filigree pieces to findings or to other filigrees?
    For bracelets, necklaces and earrings: The filigree findings can be linked anywhere there is a hole. You can simply place a jump ring, simple loop, or wrap a wire through any space in the “petals.” For pins and ear posts: Use a strong adhesive such as E6000 to affix the components directly to pin pads. Remember that bonds between two metal surfaces are not going to be as strong as soldering. Magnets will not work with the filigrees. For buttons: Since our filigree pieces don’t have shanks on the back, they can’t be used the way a regular button can. However, you can sew the components directly onto fabric through the filigree holes. A short sharps needle would make this task easier. Once you have sewn on the filigree, you may fashion a loop of cord as a catch for your button.


  32. Q. What is the difference between Stretch Magic and Gossamer Floss?
    Gossamer Floss has more "give" or elasticity than Stretch Magic. It is made of several fibers, so if a bead with a rough hole edge cuts into it, the cord will fray before breaking, rather than snapping like Stretch Magic can do. To use Gossamer Floss, you'll need a needle with a large collapsible eye. Stretch Magic is sufficiently stiff that it doesn't require a needle.


  33. Q. Can I use Toho transparent beading thread with a needle?
    Toho beading thread in size Fine will fit through a size 10 beading needle. Toho thread in sizes Medium and Heavy will fit through a Big Eye Needle. You may want to try using sizes Medium and Heavy, which are relatively stiff, without a needle.


  34. Q. Is the silver foil used in Czech lampworked beads made of sterling silver?
    The silver in the Czech lampworked beads is pure silver foil. It never tarnishes, because it is encased in the glass, which prevents exposure to oxygen and the associated formation of oxides.


  35. Q. What is Cubic Zirconia?
    Cubic Zirconia is chemically composed of zirconium oxide and yttrium oxide. When melted and combined in the laboratory, these materials form a dazzling, clear crystal very close in weight and appearance to a real diamond. It can be made in nearly any color and can be faceted into many cuts.


  36. Q. How are Swarovski crystals different from plain glass?
    According to Swarovski, “Many Swarovski lovers believe that the raw material used in the manufacture of our crystal objects occurs naturally. Nothing could be further from the truth. Swarovski crystal is made at the factory in Wattens using basic formulae perfected by Daniel Swarovski and his three sons in the earlier part of last century. Swarovski crystal is fired using a combination of natural minerals and quartz sand, and then cooled slowly to avoid stress and inclusions.”


  37. Q. Do Swarovski crystal dye lots vary in color?
    Swarovski crystal dye lots can vary slightly.


  38. Q. What is a synthetic semi-precious stone?
    Synthetic gemstones have the same properties as natural gems, but they are created in a laboratory. Simulated stones appear similar to natural gemstones but have different properties.


  39. Q. Are semi-precious stone beads dyed, enhanced or stabilized?
    Almost all semi-precious stone beads are somehow altered to enhance their natural colors. Fusion Beads carries only high-quality, semi-precious stone beads that will not bleed or fade.


  40. Q. What is opalized glass?
    Opalized glass is glass, not a naturally occurring stone. The glass is opalized by injecting a substance that creates a cloudy, iridescent effect. Some beads look slightly cloudier than others, giving each strand a natural look. It resembles a natural stone so much that we like to think of it as part of the semi-precious family when designing jewelry.


Tools
  1. Q. Which crimp bead and corresponding crimping pliers should I use with which beading wire size?
    First find the table for the crimping pliers size you want to use. Then find the beading wire size (diameter in inches) you want to use in the top row. When you look down the column for that beading wire size, you'll find one or more dots indicating the crimp bead(s) that will fit perfectly with the beading wire you have selected when the wire has been doubled.

    TL1925 Euro Crimper

    Beading Wire Size 0.010" 0.012" 0.013" 0.014" 0.015" 0.018" 0.019" 0.021" 0.024"
    2x1mm Crimp Bead

    2x1.5mm Crimp Bead

    2x2mm Crimp Bead

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    TL0500 Standard Crimping Pliers

    Beading Wire Size 0.010" 0.012" 0.013" 0.014" 0.015" 0.018" 0.019" 0.021" 0.024"
    2x2mm Crimp Bead

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    2x3mm Crimp Bead

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    2x1mm Crimp Bead

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    1.25mm Crimp Bead

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    1.5x2mm Crimp Bead

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    1.5x3mm Crimp Bead

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    TL0501 Micro Crimping Pliers
     
    Beading Wire Size 0.010" 0.012" 0.013" 0.014" 0.015" 0.018" 0.019" 0.021" 0.024"

    1x1mm Crimp Bead

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    TL0502 Mighty Crimping Pliers

    Beading Wire Size 0.010" 0.012" 0.013" 0.014" 0.015" 0.018" 0.019" 0.021" 0.024"
    *3x3mm Light Crimp Bead

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    3x3mm Heavy Crimp Bead

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    * recommended with ribbon and cord; not recommended with beading wire 

    TL0645 Magical Crimp-Forming Pliers

    Beading Wire Size 0.010" 0.012" 0.013" 0.014" 0.015" 0.018" 0.019" 0.021" 0.024"
    2x2mm Crimp Bead
             

     

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    TL0106 Chain Nose Pliers
    To crimp twisted crimp beads, we recommend using chain nose pliers to crimp them flat.
     
    Beading Wire Size 0.010" 0.012" 0.013" 0.014" 0.015" 0.018" 0.019" 0.021" 0.024"
    2x2mm Twisted Crimp Bead

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    2x3 Twisted Crimp Bead

       



  2. Q. How do I use a bead reamer?
    The diamond tip bead reamer’s safest and most common function is to clean bead holes. It is sometimes used for enlarging semi-precious bead holes, but because some natural stones are fragile, the bead and/or reaming tip may be damaged. Always use the tool under water for lubrication, which will help prevent breakage.


  3. Q. How are the long and short Lindstrom Ergonomic chain nose pliers different?
    The short nose pliers clamp more tightly at the tip, offering greater control. The long nose pliers offer a wider range of sizes to work with. For example, the narrow tip will get into very small spaces.


  4. Q. What is the solder in the soldering kit made of?
    The solder is lead-free and made of tin, copper and silver. It is a solid-wire solder that contains no flux in the core. It is not silver-bearing.


  5. Q. What type of surfaces should I work on while I’m soldering?
    Place the Heat Resistant Solder Mat on a work surface. Although it is heat-resistant, the mat will still get hot and can heat the surface beneath it. Add an extra layer (such as a stainless steel sheet or tile) under the mat if you are working on a surface that you want to protect. If you do not have a Heat Resistant Solder Mat, you can use a ceramic tile.


  6. Q. Can I use a photograph in a soldering project?
    If you want to use a photo image, we suggest using a photocopy. The top layer of photo paper or any glossy paper will melt when heated, pull away from the photo and stick to the glass, distorting the image.


  7. Q. Can I put several layers of paper between the two pieces of glass?
    Yes, you can layer paper, stickers, stamps or other elements to create dimension. You’ll have the best results if you distribute the elements evenly so that the two pieces of glass remain parallel and do not “rock.”


  8. Q. Can I use more than two pieces of glass in my soldering project?
    Yes, you can use additional glass pieces to achieve a layered effect. You may need to go back over the copper tape with another piece of tape to make it wide enough to fit around the glass.


  9. Q. Can I put flat back crystals on the image under the glass?
    Yes, you can use crystals as long as you distribute them evenly to prevent the glass from “rocking.” For example, if you put a crystal in one corner, place another crystal in the opposite corner.


  10. Q. Can I use sterling silver jump rings with my soldered piece?
    We do not recommend using sterling silver. The heat from the soldering iron can cause the surface of the silver to turn black (called fire scale). This black coating must be removed by using an acid solution known as pickle – it cannot be polished.


  11. Q. Can I use the soldering iron to solder sterling silver or fine silver?
    No, the soldering iron in the kit is intended only for use in making soldered pendants, as shown in our Basic Soldering Beading Technique, and related applications (such as stained glass).


  12. Q. What kinds of metal does the soldering kit work with?
    We recommend using the base metal jump rings that come with the kit and base metal components.


  13. Q. My copper tape is crooked – can I fix it?
    You can always peel off the tape and apply a new piece.


  14. Q. The wavy tape has waves only on one side. How can I put a wave design on both sides of my piece?
    After you have applied the wavy copper tape, go back over the tape (as you would when adding tape to layered glass pieces) with another piece of wavy tape – this time with the wave on the opposite side of the piece.


  15. Q. I applied flux to my whole piece before soldering, and now the edges of the tape have turned green. Why?
    The flux has dried on the copper foil, causing oxidation. Use a damp cloth to wipe off the dry flux and oxidation. To avoid oxidation, apply flux on one side at a time as you are working.


  16. Q. Do I have to worry about the solder sticking to the glass?
    No, the solder will bond to the copper foil tape only (after flux is applied) and will not stick to glass.


  17. Q. Can I make a soldered piece without using the copper tape?
    No, solder will not adhere to glass – only to the copper foil tape treated with flux.


  18. Q. Blobs of solder are on my work surface and sponge. What can I do with them?
    You can still use the solder. Instead of adding fresh solder to the soldering iron, use the hot iron to pick up a blob. Apply the solder to your piece as usual.


  19. Q. Why won’t the solder stick to the copper foil tape?
    You did not use sufficient flux. Flux acts as a bonding agent between the solder and the tape – without it, the solder will not stick. Since flux will evaporate over time, you may have to reapply more flux even if you have already applied it.


  20. Q. Why is my solder uneven?
    Make sure your piece is seated flat on the table. If your piece is at an angle, gravity will pull the solder downward. Remember to apply flux each time before you add solder, which will help the solder flow more smoothly.


  21. Q. Why do black spots appear in the solder after I’ve heated it?
    Spots are generally caused by dirt or other particulate matter getting caught in the solder. Most of the spots will come off when you wash or buff your piece when it’s finished.


  22. Q. Why does my glass keep breaking?
    You may be overheating the glass, or the glass has been clamped directly. Avoid touching the glass as you apply the solder; instead, place the clamp on the copper or solder.


  23. Q. Why won’t my solder form the domed shape that I see in samples?
    You are not using enough solder. Don’t be afraid to use too much – you can always remove excess solder with the soldering iron.


  24. Q. Why are the soldered edges of my piece lifting away from the glass?
    You may not have pressed the copper foil tape down sufficiently, or you may have applied too much flux, causing the tape to come up from the glass.


  25. Q. If my piece is too hot to touch, can I use my jewelry pliers to move it?
    We don’t recommend it. Heating the metal tips of pliers will cause the metal to anneal, making your pliers too soft for jewelry work. Designate a different pair as “hot pliers” and use them for this purpose.


  26. Q. I’ve attached a jump ring in the wrong place. What can I do?
    Reheat the solder holding the jump ring in place, and move the jump ring carefully. Be sure to hold the jump ring steady with a pair of hot pliers or hemostat clamps while you are heating the solder.


  27. Q. My soldered piece is finished, but I’m not happy with the result. Can I take it apart and start over?
    Definitely. The solder can be melted off the copper tape easily with the soldering iron. Let the solder drip off onto your mat or tile, and reuse it for the next piece.


  28. Q. What is the best way to store my soldering iron after use?
    When you are finished using the soldering iron, unplug it, and let it cool slightly. Melt a small amount of solder onto the tip. Let the iron cool completely in its stand.


Design Tips
  1. Q. How are spacer bars used?
    If you are stringing multiple strands of beads, spacer bars will keep the rows straight and uniform. Use as many spacer bars as your design needs.

    If you are planning to use many different sizes and shapes of beads, use the same size and number of beads after each spacer to keep the strands from bunching. For ideas, take a look at how spacer bars have been used by our designers on the Inspiration page.


  2. Q. How do I use French Wire, and what size should I use?
    French Wire, or bullion, is a hollow tube of tightly wound wire used to hide and strengthen the ends of flexible stringing wire, giving jewelry a clean, professional finish. Fine French Wire fits .014 fine stringing wire, Medium fits .019 medium stringing wire, and Heavy fits .024 heavy stringing wire. It is also used to reinforce silk cord used in pearl knotting. When you have finished stringing the beads, follow these easy steps on each side of your jewelry:

    1. String a crimp bead.
    2. Cut ¾” piece of French Wire and string onto end of wire.
    3. Loop wire through one side of clasp and pass end of wire back through the crimp bead.
    4. Pull wire snugly so that the crimp bead is close to the clasp, and use crimping pliers to secure your crimp bead.


  3. Q. Other than their shapes, what’s the difference between a round jump ring and an oval jump ring?
    Oval jump rings are always cut with the opening on the long side of the oval. When a chain, another jump ring or a finding is looped through the oval jump ring without slack, gravity tends to keep the opening in the ring on the side away from the object to which it is attached. Even if the ring were to inadvertently open, this construction reduces the chance of the other object from detaching.


  4. Q. How can I make wine glass markers?
    An easy way to make wine glass markers is to use beading hoops. String the beads and charms as desired, and use chain nose pliers to bend the straight end of the hoop to keep the beads from sliding off. See our step-by-step Technique to make wine glass markers.


  5. Q. How can I ensure that a bracelet or necklace closed with a magnetic clasp doesn’t fall off?
    Magnet clasps are easy and fast to fasten, especially for people who have difficulty with other types of clasps. Unfortunately, their ease in fastening is also what makes them easy to pull open inadvertently. To prevent loss, you can either choose a magnetic clasp with a built-in lock, or make a small safety chain yourself. Choose a small, flexible chain less than 2mm in diameter.

    Cut about an inch of chain (for a bracelet, cut a piece long enough to allow your hand to pass through when the chain is attached to the clasp). Use jump or split rings to attach each end of the chain to each side of the magnetic clasp. Now even if the clasp detaches inadvertently, the chain will keep the jewelry from falling off.


  6. Q. I want to use a charm as a pendant on a chain, but the loop at the top of the charm is facing in the wrong direction, and the charm is always turning backward when I wear it.
    An easy solution to this problem is to attach a jump ring to the charm, then string the chain through the jump ring. The jump ring will enable the charm to hang flat against your skin and stay facing in the direction that you want it to. For photos and instructions on attaching a jump ring, see our step-by-step Technique.





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