Mixed Media Q and A
This mixed media Q&A will teach you everything you always wanted to know about ICE Resin, Gilder's Paste, Crystal Clay and Renaissance Wax. Topics include: properties, preventing bubbles, adding color, repairing scratches and more!
1. What are Adirondack® Alcohol Inks, and what will they do for my jewelry?
Alcohol Ink is a fast-drying, alcohol-based pigment. It can be applied over acrylic paint or directly onto a metal surface and sealed with resin, sealant or water-based adhesives such as Diamond Glaze™ or Glossy Accents™ to create an imitation enamel effect. Adirondack® Alcohol Inks, which are acid free and fade resistant, coordinate with Adirondack® Acrylic Paint Dabbers. Alcohol Inks are ideal on metal, glossy paper, dominoes, shrink plastic, glass and other slick surfaces.
2. How do I apply Adirondack® Alcohol Inks?
Drop the ink directly onto a metal surface using the precision tip. You can then smudge or guide the ink over the surface with a cotton ball, make-up sponge or cotton swab.
3. Is the ink in Adirondack® Alcohol Inks opaque or transparent?
Adirondack® Alcohol Inks are transparent.
4. Are Adirondack® Alcohol Inks water soluble?
No, Adirondack® Alcohol Inks are not water soluble. Use Adirondack® Alcohol Ink Blending Solution or acetone to clean or remove alcohol inks from metals.
5. What is Crystal Clay made from?
Crystal Clay is a two part epoxy clay.
6. Should I bake Crystal Clay?
No baking is necessary. The clay will air-cure in 12-24 hours.
7. Is this product toxic?
Crystal Clay is non-toxic but can be a skin irritant.
8. Why do I need to wear gloves?
Crystal Clay is a very sticky clay, so we do recommend using the vinyl gloves that are included with the clay. Even though the clay is non-toxic, it can cause skin irritation in certain individuals with sensitive skin. The color of the clay can also stain your hands, especially the darker colors, but it can be scrubbed off with soap and water.
9. Will it shrink?
No. Crystal Clay will not shrink while curing.
10. Will the color change?
The color of the clay will become lighter once you blend the colored clay with the white base. Once you have finished blending the clay, the color will not change further.
11. Can I drill it?
Yes, but you will need to wear a face mask and be careful not to inhale any of the dust while drilling.
12. Can I stamp into it?
Yes, you can stamp into the Crystal Clay.
13. Can I use ink and paint with it?
Yes, but you will need to apply a sealant after the ink or paint has dried to prevent the color from wearing away.
14. Can I use it in a mold?
Yes, but you will need to use some form of mold release, wax or oil to easily remove the clay from the mold.
15. Will the clay hold a 3-dimensional shape without a mold?
Yes, the clay is dense enough that it will hold a shape without a mold or bezel. The exact shape and position that the clay is left in will be exactly how it cures.
16. Can I use the clay in an open-back bezel?
Yes. Mix your clay and apply it to your bezel as you normally would, making sure that the clay adheres to all sides of the bezel. Leave the piece to dry on a piece of wax paper for 24 hours. Once it is fully cured, you will be able to peel the wax paper off of the back of the bezel.
17. How much working time do I have?
You have approximately 60-90 minutes to work with the clay before it will not accept embellishments any more. We recommend mixing the clay only until it isn't marbled, because if you knead it beyond that you can shorten the working time.
18. I mixed too much for the piece I’m working on. Is there a way to prevent it from setting so I can use it at a later time?
No. Once you have mixed the clay, you have activated the hardening process.
19. How long does it take to cure?
The cure time for Crystal Clay is 12-24 hours.
20. Do I need to use a different pair of gloves for each color that I use?
During the mixing process, the color and epoxy can stick to the gloves. In order to keep the color clean, use a new pair for each color.
21. Will the clay stain my work surface?
We would recommend taping a plastic bag or wax paper to your work surface, as some of the darker colors can leave visible smudges. If you do get some color smudges on your work surface, you should be able to remove the stain fully with soap and water.
22. Can I achieve a marbled look to the clay by only partially mixing the clay?
No. If the clay is not mixed fully according to the directions, it will not cure properly. To achieve a marbled look to your clay, you will want to start with two packages of clay: one White, and one of the second desired color. You will then fully mix each clay separately and marble the two lumps together once each color is properly mixed.
23. Can I combine two different colors while mixing the clay?
Yes, as long as you have a proportionate amount of white base to combine with the colored clays. We cannot guarantee what shade the resulting color will have once two different colored clays are combined together.
24. Can I add freshly mixed clay to the surface of set/hardened clay?
Yes, the Crystal Clay will adhere to itself. However, the color of the two different batches of clay may not match up. If too much colored clay is used to mix the second batch, it will appear brighter than the first batch. If too much white base is used to mix the second batch, it will appear lighter than the first batch.
25. What is the shelf life?
Crystal Clay can have up to a four-year shelf life. If the crystal clay is hard but not expired, put it in warm water for a few minutes and the clay becomes perfectly soft and malleable again.
26. Can the clay still be used if it is hard or clumpy?
If the clay is stored in colder climates, the clay can appear hard, like a polymer clay. Keep the clay in the zippered bag it originally comes in, seal it tight and run under hot water for 2 minutes. This will soften the clay up very nicely.
27. What materials can I adhere to the clay?
You can adhere nearly any material to Crystal Clay, including Swarovski Elements crystal, metal, wood and glass. Please note that the clay will not be flexible when dry.
28. Can Swarovski Elements Crystal Flat Back Rhinestones be set into Crystal Clay?
No. Flat Back Rhinestones would pop out of the clay because they do not have pointed backs like Crystal Chatons do. These pointed backs help to root the stone into the clay.
29. How do I add small crystals or embellishments to the clay?
You can use either the beeswax-tipped toothpick provided or your fingers to add small crystals or embellishments to the clay. Tweezers are also an option, but you run the risk of accidentally gouging the clay surface with the tips. It is easier to smooth a fingerprint out of the surface than to reshape the clay surface to hide a gouge, especially if you have already begun embellishing the clay.
30. How far down into the clay do I need to press the Swarovski Elements Crystal Chatons?
You will want to make sure that the widest edge of the Swarovski Elements Crystal Chatons is even with the surface of the clay. If you press crystals or other embellishments too far down into the clay, cracks can appear.
31. How do I add Swarovski Elements Crystal Fancy Stones to the clay so that they completely fill the surface of the clay?
To get a very full look, start adding Swarovski Elements Crystal Fancy Stones on one side of the surface of the clay and work your way out from that spot until the clay is covered. If you scatter Fancy Stones across the whole surface of the clay, it will be difficult to fill in all of the gaps left between the crystals.
32. How do I dome the clay in a bezel pendant?
To dome the clay, mix more clay than it takes to fill the bezel. Roll the clay into a ball with the palms of your hands, and then gently press the clay into the bezel pendant until it reaches the edges. Use your fingertips to shape the dome. The more clay that you add, the larger your dome will be.
33. What do I do if my clay has cracks in it?
If your clay develops cracks before you start adding Swarovski Elements Crystal Fancy Stones to it, just keep rolling it between your palms until it is smooth. If it develops cracks after you have already started covering the surface with Fancy Stones, you can dampen a soft cloth with water and very gently rub it on the crack to smooth it out.
34. What do I do if my clay has fingerprints on it?
If your clay has fingerprints on it before you start adding Swarovski Elements Crystal Fancy Stones to it, just keep rolling it between your palms until it is smooth. If you wear gloves during this step and when you shape the clay, you will not get any fingerprints on the surface. If you get fingerprints on the clay after you have already started covering the surface with Fancy Stones, you can put the gloves back on and use your fingertip to rub the fingerprints out. If you are filling the entire surface of the clay with Fancy Stones, you don’t need to remove the fingerprints as they will get covered up.
35. If a crystal falls out of my cured piece, can I glue it back in?
Yes, you can use 5 Minute Epoxy to glue the crystal back into the cured clay.
36. Can I get cured Crystal Clay out of my bezel if I do not like the finished product?
You could try to chip away at or drill the finished clay out of the bezel, but the clay may crack or crumble during the drilling.
37. Is the clay waterproof?
Crystal Clay is waterproof once it has cured.
38. Is the clay impact resistant?
Crystal Clay is extremely hard once it is cured. It will not break with regular wear, but the clay may break if it is dropped.
40. What is Gilders Paste?
Gilders Paste is a wax-based medium that can be applied to metal, wood, polymer clay, ceramics, resin, wax and gourds.
41. Do I need to prep the surface of my piece first before I apply Gilders Paste?
The surface should be dry and clean, free of dirt, oil and grease. If the piece is smooth, you will need to texture the piece lightly with sandpaper or steel wool, as Gilders Paste cannot stick to smooth surfaces.
42. How do I apply Gilders Paste?
You can use your finger or a sponge, toothbrush, paintbrush or cloth to apply the paste in a rubbing motion. Make sure to use the paste in a well ventilated area.
43. How do I remove Gilders Paste?
Wet a cloth with a little paint thinner and gently wipe the surface of the piece. If some paste still remains, let the piece sit for a few minutes and then wipe off the remaining paste. Gilders Paste can also be removed with a cloth within 15 minutes of application. The longer you wait, the harder it will be to remove.
44. Can I combine different colors?
You can mix different colors of Gilders Paste together while they are wet to achieve a blended effect. You can also layer different colors on top of each other. Let your first color dry for at least an hour before adding the second color.
45. Can I achieve different highlighting effects with Gilders Paste?
Rubbing the piece immediately after application with a dry cloth or a cloth that is slightly wet with paint thinner will remove Gilders Paste from the relief detail and highlight depressed details. Lightly brushing Gilders Paste over the top will highlight the relief details.
46. What is the drying time?
Gilders Paste will dry to the touch in approximately 60 minutes. Complete cure time is approximately 12 hours. If polishing or burnishing is required, allow 12 hours drying time. Allow at least 24 hours drying time if using on candles.
47. Is Gilders Paste permanent?
Yes, the paste is designed to be permanent once it dries.
48. Do I need to seal my piece after the Gilders Paste has dried?
Sealing your piece is not necessary, but you may want to seal it with a clear glaze or sealant if it will have a lot of contact (such as a clasp).
49. Will the colors fade in sunlight?
Gilders Paste does not fade in sunlight.
50. Can I polish Gilders Paste after it dries?
Polishing the metallic Gilders Pastes with a soft cloth will produce a gilded finish. Nonmetallic pastes will be shiny after polishing. If left unpolished, the finish will be semi-gloss or matte depending on the color.
51. My tin of Gilders Paste has dried out. Can I still use it?
Yes. Add a little paint thinner or mineral spirits to the paste and mix it together. You do not need to mix up the whole tin, just mix what you need as you need it.
53. Is ICE Resin non-toxic?
ICE Resin contains no hazardous chemicals in excess of 1% as indicated by supplier’s material safety data sheets and OSHA’s hazardous chemical standards. However, it is always a good idea to work in a well ventilated area
54. Will ICE Resin irritate my skin?
If overexposed ICE Resin could possibly cause minor irritation to ones skin. ICE Resin is not likely to be absorbed through your skin in toxic amounts. If you get ICE Resin on your skin wash with soap and water. Make sure to wash your clothes before you wear them again. It is always a good idea to wear rubber gloves to protect your skin while working with ICE Resin. Baby wipes also work well to remove resin from your hands.
55. What should I do if I get ICE Resin in my eyes?
If ICE Resin gets in your eyes rinse with water for five minutes. Consult a physician.
56. Will ICE Resin turn yellow like other resins I have worked with in the past?
ICE Resin is jewelers grade and will not yellow or breakdown.
57. Does ICE Resin stick to everything?
ICE Resin will stick to a lot of different items. ICE Resin will not stick to certain items you choose to work with like silicone, plastic, soap/chocolate molds and white garbage bags. This is why plastic garbage bags are great to use under your work surface.
58. Does ICE Resin expire?
After one year it will not cure properly.
59. How long of a working time do I have once I have mixed a batch of ICE Resin?
Once the resin and hardener have been mixed together ICE Resin is good to use for between 30 and 45 minutes. ICE Resin works best when the temperature is at about 68-72 degrees.
60. I live in a very hot climate. Will this affect my ICE Resin?
If you are working with ICE Resin in hotter temperatures, there is less standing time. The hotter it is, the faster the ICE Resin will harden. You will have less time to use your ICE Resin due to the hot temperature.
61. I live in a very cold climate. Will this affect my ICE Resin?
If you are working with ICE Resin in colder temperatures, you will have more issues with bubbles forming. To prevent bubbles from forming, you can place the piece under a task lamp for about 20 minutes to help get rid of the bubbles.
62. Do I have to use heat to cure my ICE Resin?
No. ICE Resin is air cured. Heat can however be used in the form of a task lamp to make it dry quicker and help get rid of any bubbles. Do not exceed a 60 watt bulb.
63. How can I prevent bubbles in my ICE Resin?
To help prevent or remove bubbles place a task lamp over the ICE Resin pieces. Try not to use items in the bezel pendants that have holes. If you do choose to use items with holes such as beads, make sure to fill the holes with glue and let the glue dry completely before adding resin.
64. How long does it take for ICE Resin to dry?
ICE Resin takes 6 hours to soft cure and 3 days until it dries completely.
65. Can I mix multiple batches of ICE Resin together to pour into a bezel?
Don’t mix two different batches of ICE Resin into the same bezel at the same time. Pour the first batch of ICE Resin into the bezel and let cure for at least 6 hours before mixing another batch to pour into the same bezel. If you try to mix different batches of ICE Resin with each other it may throw off the measurements. There is only a 10% margin of error.
66. If I don’t make enough of the ICE Resin for my project can I mix more into the measuring cup I have already used?
When mixing the resin and hardener don’t use the same mixing cup more than once. If you do it may throw off the measurements. There is only a 10% margin of error.
67. How long do I need to stir the ICE Resin before it is ready to use?
Stir the ICE Resin thoroughly for a minimum of 2 minutes. The ICE Resin should be clear when ready. You can’t over mix your ICE Resin but under mixing may cause it to not cure completely.
21. Do I always have to pour the resin (part A) before the hardener (part B)?
It doesn’t matter if the resin or hardener is poured first. It is however easier to pour the resin first because of the thickness.
69. Can I use organic materials with my ICE Resin?
Yes you can use organic materials such as leaves, flowers, and branches with ICE Resin. You need to make sure that they are completely dry before use. They will rot inside of the resin if not dried completely.
70. What kind of paper can I use with my ICE Resin?
You can use any type of paper you would like. Laser images, photo paper, and tissue paper as well as other papers will work fine. Apply a thin layer of glue to seal your picture or image this will prevent the ICE Resin from seeping into the paper. When using ink jet images be careful when applying the glue. It may cause the image to smear. Laser jet is recommended.
71. What can I use to add color to my ICE Resin?
Pearl Ex powdered pigment, Alcohol ink, Oil paint, pastels, and oil based pigments will blend well with the ICE Resin. Be careful not to add too much pigment as too much will prevent the resin from curing completely. (Do not use water based pigments, they will prevent the resin from curing.)
72. How can I make layers with ICE Resin?
Make the first layer leaving enough room in the form for one or more layers to follow. When the first layer has soft cured for 6 hours, place the beads, paper or other objects that you want to enclose on the surface of the first layer, and then add another layer of ICE Resin and let cure. Repeat these steps until you have your desired number of layers.
73. How can I repair a scratch in my ICE Resin?
If you get a scratch or fingerprint in your finished ICE Resin piece you can paint or pour on a thin layer of ICE Resin over the imperfection. ICE Resin is self healing; the two layers will chemically combine and your scratch will be repaired.
74. What can I do if ICE Resin spills over the sides of my form?
You can clean up excess resin while the ICE Resin is still wet. Use a baby wipe to wipe away the excess resin. If the ICE Resin has dried you can try cutting or filing the ICE Resin off.
75. Can I use dimensional objects with ICE Resin?
Yes. Here are things to consider: - Crystal beads, crystal flat backs and any other faceted objects will lose their faceted appearance when covered with ICE Resin. - Charms, metal beads and components work well, as do many crafting embellishments. -To prevent objects from moving during the setting process, use a small amount of glue to stabilize them. If you are using beads in your ICE Resin project you will want to fill them with glue and let dry before use to prevent any unwanted bubbles.
76. Will ICE Resin yellow over time?
No, The “parent” formula for ICE Resin has been used in large commercial applications for more than 50 years. It’s proven to not fade or yellow.
77. Part A of my ICE Resin set is getting hard. Is it still useable? What can I do?
Your ICE Resin Part A is suffering from cold temperatures. It can still be used – it just needs a hot bath! Please follow these instructions and your product will be back to normal again. Run hot tap water for a couple of minutes so that it is fully hot. Fill the sink, bowl or bucket with hot water. Secure the cap on the bottle, and place it in hot water for 30 minutes. The hot bath treatment should be necessary only once, but please check the product before each use to ensure that it is clear and flowing easily.
78. What is the ideal temperature to store ICE resin?
An "ideal" storage temperature would be average room temperature, between 65 -75 degrees, but it is just as important to avoid temperature fluctuations and definitely avoid temperature extremes. Generally, any cabinet inside a home should be fine for storage. If either Part A or part B has been frozen (or even if it's suspected to have frozen in the past), the bottles just need to sit in a "bath" of hot tap water for up to an hour; that should both make it easier to mix and solve any cloudiness problems.
79. What do I do if my ICE Resin freezes?
If either Part A or part B has been frozen (or even if it's suspected to have frozen in the past), the bottles just need to sit in a "bath" of hot tap water for up to an hour; that should both make it easier to mix and solve any cloudiness problems.
81. What is Renaissance Wax?
Renaissance Wax is a fragrance-free, acid-free microcrystalline wax. It was developed for use in the British Museum and is used by museums worldwide for protecting furniture, leather, marble, paintings and metal.
82. What can Renaissance Wax be used on?
Renaissance Wax can be used on all metals, gemstones, glass, enamel, wood and more.
83. Will Renaissance Wax seal patinas?
Renaissance Wax is excellent as a permanent patina sealer.
84. What does Renaissance Wax protect against?
Once applied, Renaissance Wax protects against tarnish, repels oils, dirts and fingerprints, and is waterproof, alcohol resistant and non-abrasive.
85. Will Renaissance Wax change color over the years?
Renaissance Wax will not stain or discolor with aging.
86. How do I apply Renaissance Wax?
We recommend using Renaissance Wax in a well-ventilated room. People with sensitive skin may want to wear gloves when applying the wax.
To use, apply sparingly with a soft cloth and buff gently for a glossy finish. The wax dries hard instantly with no sticky residue.
87. Do I need to frequently reapply Renaissance Wax to my piece?
Renaissance Wax's long-lasting preservation reduces the need for frequent maintenance.
88. Can I remove Renaissance Wax after I apply it?
Renaissance Wax can be completely removed by rubbing with mineral spirits.
89. How long does Renaissance Wax last in its tin?
In room temperature, with the can firmly capped, Renaissance Wax has an indefinite shelf life.